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Sprinter Menu: Carrot Buns

This is what it’s looked like outside Dirt Candy pretty much every day for the past three weeks:

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Why? Because of the new addition to our Sprinter (half-spring, half-winter) menu, Barbecued Rainbow Carrot Buns:

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With most dishes at Dirt Candy I can tell you exactly what the inspiration was, but with the Barbecued Rainbow Carrot Buns I have no idea. One day, buns and carrots were the furthest things from my mind. The next day, I was dead set on making Barbecued Rainbow Carrot Buns. Possessed by a hungry rabbit spirit? Mind controlled by an evil lagomorphic mastermind? It’s a mystery to me.

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Girls Can’t Cook

I’ve been wondering about this for a long time, and I’ve never said anything before, but recently what I suspected was finally confirmed: women can’t cook. I thought they could, but after this year’s James Beard awards, I realize: nope. 24 people received awards this year, and three of them were women (one chef, one pastry chef and Ariane Batterberry shared a Lifetime Achievement Award with her husband). But it’s not like women started sucking yesterday. Last year, three women got James Beard Awards (one was a pastry chef and another got a Lifetime Achievement Award). In 2008, 5 women got James Beard Awards out of 24 winners (a shared pastry award, a shared service award and three regional awards). In 2007, four women got James Beard Awards (two were shared), and they couldn’t even hold onto pastry.

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In four years, 93 James Beard Awards have been given out, and 15 of them have gone to women. And it’s not just the James Beard Awards. Food & Wine recognizes 10 of the best chefs in America every year. Since 2000, they’ve celebrated 110 of them and only 15 women have been good enough to make the cut. Or maybe that was just some kind of tricky affirmative action thing?

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With only one, tiny, nine-table restaurant to my name, I don’t expect to be nominated for a James Beard Award anytime soon or to be one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs, but this past year I did get a Rising Star Award from StarChefs, which honored 15 of the best, up-and-coming New York City chefs. The only other woman who made the grade? Claire Paparazzo of Blue Hill and, as talented as she is, she’s a sommelier, not a chef.

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Using science and graphs, there’s only one possible conclusion: women can’t cook.

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Can’t argue with those numbers!

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I see women working in restaurants all over the city, so why aren’t they winning awards and being celebrated by the press? Why don’t more New Yorkers know their names? Easy: would you want to know the names of a bunch of losers?

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“Hey dudes, no girls.”

“I know, right? Let’s party.”

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Women write about food, sure. Gael Greene and Ruth Reichl are in the living legend column, Julia Child and M.F.K. Fisher are over in the dead legend column. Women write about food at the Village Voice, Time Out New York, New York Magazine, the New York Times and Saveur. One of the most famous lifestyle and food celebrities in the world is Martha Stewart and you can tell from her name that she’s a woman. Eater, the biggest online food gossip blog, even has a female editor. But it’s a sign of how bad women are in the kitchen that even these women can’t find much nice to say about them. Obviously, it’s because women can’t cook.

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Odette Fada was called “One of New York’s preeminent female chefs…” by Eater. Number of times they wrote about her? Twice in three years.* In the same time frame, Nate Appleman got tagged on 42 posts, David Chang got tagged on 86, Sam Mason got tagged on 21 and so did Marcus Samuelsson, Zak Pelaccio got 29, Ryan Skeen got 25 and Johnny Iuzzini got 11. See? Women suck so hard that no one even wants to write about them.

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Why would an investor back a female chef in a restaurant? He knows that she won’t get the hype and attention a male chef will get because she’s clearly inferior. I look around at the awards and at the press, I think about who the celebrated up and coming male chefs are (Nate Appleman, George Mendes) and then the celebrated female chefs (um…) and I realize that, as a woman, I have no place being in a kitchen.

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ALo&ABLo

There’s April Bloomfield, and Anita Lo,

and, uh…Missy Robbins? And then

there’s Gabrielle Hamilton, right…and,

there’s…um…that other one…what’s-her-name…

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Most women are smart enough not to say anything about this situation, and I shouldn’t be pointing it out at all because it’s embarrassing to admit in public how much we suck at cooking. But I think it’s time someone made it clear to the young ‘uns: if you are a woman and you are planning to make a career in restaurants, you won’t get the awards, you won’t get the press coverage and you probably won’t get the big opportunities. Why? Well, there’re only two possible answers and we all know which one is correct: if you’re a woman, you just can’t cook.

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So stop trying.

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(* I’m using the number of times a post was tagged with the chef’s name, not just the number of times their name is mentioned on Eater)


175 – 170 Family Meals

Last week’s family meals started out with a miniature disaster.

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Tuesday: we had white rice with a sort of eggplant and zucchini dish (in the pan). Unfortunately, I handed Jesus a jar of lime pickles and told him to “add some of this.” For some reason (was he trying to haze me?) he added the entire jar without chopping it up. The result was a dish that was edible, but theoretically edible in the way that a gallon of hot sauce is theoretically edible.

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Wednesday: was much better with an iced coffee drink and tofu and egg sandwiches.

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Thursday: Asian noodles with tomatoes and mushroom stems, and on the side is an old batch of wasabi pea leaves from the pea soup.

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Saturday: after skipping Friday to do the LuckyRice Night Market, we came back on Saturday to have a salad, rice, lime soda, eggs with tomatoes, and a sort of dish of fried corn, peas and mushrooms.

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LuckyRice Nightmarket Lucky Cat Round-Up

Dirt Candy was closed last Friday to do the LuckyRice Night Market out in Dumbo. This was an outdoor market, hosted by the ubiquitous David Chang, where a bunch of folks would have stalls and either sell food or give away free food to Dumbo people. Despite the argument I had with two city employees at the Department of Consumer Affairs when I was getting my temporary permit, Dumbo is an actual neighborhood and it does actually exist (I was initially told I couldn’t get a permit to a “made-up” neighborhood).

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Sign on hardware store in Dumbo.

Not exactly sure what’s going on with the

Chinese guy angry to have white

paint dumped on him.

But this is definitely a real sign,

in a real neighborhood.

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CHOW interview – but be careful

There’s a short and sweet interview with me over at Chow.com that just went up. I love Chow a lot and I used to refuse to go to a restaurant unless I had read all the reviews of it by the Chowhounders (these days I don’t have the time, unfortunately).

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But I did want to warn readers of one thing: Chow has put up a recipe for the Carrot Risotto I used to serve at Dirt Candy, but I want readers to know that this is not the Carrot Risotto we ever served here, and this is not my recipe. They simplified the recipe that I gave them for home cooks, which is fine by me, but what they’ve printed is definitely not how I would have simplified it. I’m sure it’s a perfectly nice recipe for carrot risotto, but it’s not mine.

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menu


Menu

Snack

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Jalapeno Hush Puppies $6
served with maple butter
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Appetizers

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Mushroom $13
portobello mousse, truffled toast
pear & fennel compote

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Cucumber $12
roasted cucumber hot and sour soup,
black sesame, garlic chili oil, wood ear
mushroom, cucumber jelly

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Tomato $13
tomato cake with smoked feta,
yellow tomato leather, herb puree

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Potato $12
warm potato salad, crispy Japanese
yams, grilled sweet potato, olives,
bitter greens, apples

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Entrees

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Beets $20
salt-roasted beets, thai green curry,
beet gnocchi, whipped coconut galangal cream

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Pepper $18
fennel & pepper tofu,
parsley spaetzle, grilled
yellow pepper broth,
mustard crumbs

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Broccoli $21
smoked broccoli dogs,
broccoli kraut, salt &
vinegar broccoli rabe

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Corn $19
stone ground grits, corn cream,
pickled shiitakes, huitlacoche,
tempura poached egg

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- everything on the menu can be made vegan on request.

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Dessert

Rosemary Eggplant Tiramisu $12
grilled eggplant, rosemary cotton
candy, mascarpone

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Ice Cream Nanaimo Bar$11
sweet pea, mint, chocolate

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Popcorn Pudding$11
salted caramel corn

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Celery Cheesecake Roll$10
celeriac ice cream, peanut filling,

& candied grapes

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- vegan dessert selection changes regularly, please ask your server.

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Our wine list (and other beverages)

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Gift Certificates

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