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This month, I’m in mourning because two of my regular customers, who’ve been coming practically since Dirt Candy opened, both informed me that they’re leaving New York City and while we’ll always stay in touch, and while we’ll still be good friends, and we’ll try to make it work long distance, the relationship is over. They are no longer my regulars. They’ll be in a new city, they’ll find some new restaurant and they’ll go there a few times and then, before you know it, they’ll have forgotten all about Dirt Candy and have a new place where they’ll be regulars. I know this is just the way life happens, but I’m still going to make them mixed tapes and send really long letters with collages in them for a while.

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I never go to any restaurant enough to be a regular. I’ve always wanted to, but I feel like I need to try lots of places and so I’m always running after the newest bar or restaurant when I have free time. Restaurant monogamy is not for me. There are two places in my neighborhood that are my default locations when I’m too lazy to go further, but after 4 years no one at either place has their eyes light up when I come through the door, no one says, “The usual?” and then hands me what I want without me having to ask. I’ve just had to accept the fact that no matter how hard I’ll try, I’ll never be a regular.

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The one bright spot in all of this is that last week, after their meal, another customer came up to me and said, “We’re going to become your new regulars.” Two regulars leave, a new regular is born….it’s the Circle of Regulars.

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