dc1
Dirt Candy Header Side Image

Car(rot) Bomb

In the New Yorker review of Dirt Candy, Julian writes, “But if the candy-colored carrot risotto reminds you just how sweet and rich carrots can be, it can be exhausting for the same reason.” In the Village Voice, Digregorio writes, “The whimsy and sense of humor in the dish are admirable, but the flavor is overly simple – sweet and vegetal – being composed almost solely of carrots.”

Yes. Exactly.

.

.

I have no problem tweaking a dish if it’s not working out the way I intended for people, but this one is doing exactly what I want. The carrot risotto is supposed to taste the way it does – it’s the carrot’s revenge, a way for the poor maligned root to blow your mind. Carrots are usually treated insipidly at most restaurants, and steamed carrots are the bane of so many boring buffets. My carrot risotto is the crystal meth of carrots. If you do not feel your entire body fill up with carrot taste while eating this dish, then I’ve failed. Trust me, after tasting the real, rich, mind-blowing taste of concentrated carrot in this risotto, you’ll never eat carrots the same way again. It’s like sleeping with Sting: you’ll be ruined for other carrots.

.

“More carrot risotto, please.”

.

Vegetables are often used as filler on a plate, but many of the more sugary vegetables, like carrots, beets and sweet potatoes, offer up such overwhelming flavors that a lot of places tend to shy away from them, worried that they’ll overpower the meat on the plate. There was a time when it felt like no white tablecloth restaurant in the city could end your meal without two peeled baby carrots making a token appearance, often blanched or steamed to within an inch of their lives.

.

We are coming for your carrot risotto.

.

So welcome to my carrot risotto, a boot camp for your taste buds, offering up re-education in the pure powerful punch that carrots on carrots on carrots on carrots can give you. We cook the risotto in carrot stock, we fill it with diced carrots, we pour in fresh carrot juice and we top it with deep fried curls made from thin ribbons of baby rainbow carrots. Then we add in some carrot dumplings that look like carrot slices.

.

Carrot Risottos waiting to go out.

.

There’s been some debate about these dumplings, and I want to clear it up: there are two kinds of dumplings, in general, filled and unfilled. These days, people are really used to the filled kind, but what I serve are unfilled dumplings which most of us remember from chicken dumpling soup. They’re dough made from carrots and then cooked to add another kind of texture to the plate. In Japan, dumplings like this are called dango and they’re usually sweet and served for dessert. In Jewish cooking they’re matzoh balls (kreplach are filled dumplings). This kind of dumpling doesn’t get made much anymore, and that’s a shame – it’s hard to beat a really good matzoh ball. So this is my attempt to bring the dessert flavors of dango, the fluffiness of a matzoh ball and the sweet, earthy taste of carrots together in one kumbaya package of dumpling.

.

The aerial view.

.

The end result is a carrot dish that, I think, re-establishes carrots as a contender. In fact, I’m curious to know of any other restaurant that’s offering up a carrot dish where the humble Daucus carota is given center stage. It may overwhelm you, it may offend you, it may blow the lid off your skull but isn’t it time that carrots finally got to be the star?



menu


Menu

Snack

.

Jalapeno Hush Puppies $6
served with maple butter
.

Appetizers

.

Mushroom $13
portobello mousse, truffled toast
pear & fennel compote

.

Cucumber $12
roasted cucumber hot and sour soup,
black sesame, garlic chili oil, wood ear
mushroom, cucumber jelly

.

Spinach $13
spinach & grapefruit mille-feuille,
with smoked pistachios and ricotta

.

Potato $12
warm potato salad, crispy Japanese
yams, grilled sweet potato, olives,
bitter greens, apples

.

.

Entrees

.

Beets $20
salt-roasted beets, thai green curry,
beet gnocchi, whipped coconut galangal cream

.

Pepper $18
fennel & pepper tofu,
parsley spaetzle, grilled
yellow pepper broth,
mustard crumbs

.

Broccoli $21
smoked broccoli dogs,
broccoli kraut, salt &
vinegar broccoli rabe

.

Corn $19
stone ground grits, corn cream,
pickled shiitakes, huitlacoche,
tempura poached egg

.

- everything on the menu can be made vegan on request.

.

.

Dessert

Rosemary Eggplant Tiramisu $12
grilled eggplant, rosemary cotton
candy, mascarpone

.

Ice Cream Nanaimo Bar$11
sweet pea, mint, chocolate

.

Popcorn Pudding$11
salted caramel corn

.

Celery Cheesecake Roll $10
celeriac ice cream, peanut filling,

& candied grapes

.

- vegan dessert selection changes regularly, please ask your server.

.

Our wine list (and other beverages)

.

.

Gift Certificates

.

.

FacebookButton

.

twitterimage