dc4
Dirt Candy Header Side Image

An Ode to Beans

.

IMG_2386

.

Beans aren’t the most romantic vegetable, but they’re certainly the most versatile. They’re earthy and can stand up and hold their own next to a lot of strong flavors. This latest iteration of Dirt Candy’s crispy tofu is an ode to four beans: sea beans, long beans, wax beans, and green beans. Sexy? No. But probably the most delicious version of this tofu dish yet. (And don’t forget, tofu is just more beans: soy beans).

.

.

The first beans in this Ballad of the Beans are the long beans, which are stir fried quickly with chermoula (a spicy Moroccan paste made of herbs) then stacked beneath the crispy tofu.

.

IMG_2387

.

Green beans are the more popular bean out there, but I prefer long beans because they’re the deeper bean. Green beans have a crispy snap but no chew, whereas long beans ask you to think about them a little more. They have less snap but a lot of chew, and as you eat them they release more and more flavor. Green beans have an almost citrusy flavor, but long beans have a more complex, heartier, earthier taste. They’re the graduate students of the bean world, whereas green beans barely made it through high school: they know how to party but they’re not very complex.

.

IMG_2396

.

Then there are the sea beans. Also known as samphires, they’re succulents that grow near salt water, and they’re a vegetable I’ve used for a long time even though they’re a pain to work with. They’re very salty, so it’s like you’re cooking with a giant caper, and you’ve got to be careful. I deep fry them, which takes away some of their saltiness, then toss them in dehydrated green bean powder and smoked paprika.

.

IMG_2394

.

Underneath them is my second shout out to green beans, which are a layer of pickled green beans just there for some snap and some acidity.

.

IMG_2391

.

Finally, there’re the wax beans. I wanted to have sizzling rice cakes on the plate, but that wasn’t working. While I was experimenting with the sizzling rice I noticed that they were the same color as Oreo cookies and realized that I could make a yellow wax bean puree and use that to have tiny Oreos on the plate. I decided to use yellow wax beans instead of green beans for no other reason than if I’d used green beans they’d wind up looking like Cool Mint Oreos.

.

IMG_2392

.

The sauce is a saffron sauce with saffron stock, a lot of coconut milk, a ton of cumin, some garlic, and ginger. Then it’s topped with a bit of affila cress to give it a hearty green crunch.

.

IMG_2402

.

The result? My Song of the Beans, pure bean poetry on a plate.

.

 



menu


Menu

Snack

.

Jalapeno Hush Puppies $6
served with maple butter
.

Appetizers

.

Mushroom $13
portobello mousse, truffled toast
pear & fennel compote

.

Cucumber $12
roasted cucumber hot and sour soup,
black sesame, garlic chili oil, wood ear
mushroom, cucumber jelly

.

Spinach $13
spinach & grapefruit mille-feuille,
with smoked pistachios and ricotta

.

Potato $12
warm potato salad, crispy Japanese
yams, grilled sweet potato, olives,
bitter greens, apples

.

.

Entrees

.

Beets $20
salt-roasted beets, thai green curry,
beet gnocchi, whipped coconut galangal cream

.

Pepper $18
fennel & pepper tofu,
parsley spaetzle, grilled
yellow pepper broth,
mustard crumbs

.

Broccoli $21
smoked broccoli dogs,
broccoli kraut, salt &
vinegar broccoli rabe

.

Corn $19
stone ground grits, corn cream,
pickled shiitakes, huitlacoche,
tempura poached egg

.

- everything on the menu can be made vegan on request.

.

.

Dessert

Rosemary Eggplant Tiramisu $12
grilled eggplant, rosemary cotton
candy, mascarpone

.

Ice Cream Nanaimo Bar$11
sweet pea, mint, chocolate

.

Popcorn Pudding$11
salted caramel corn

.

Celery Cheesecake Roll $10
celeriac ice cream, peanut filling,

& candied grapes

.

- vegan dessert selection changes regularly, please ask your server.

.

Our wine list (and other beverages)

.

.

Gift Certificates

.

.

FacebookButton

.

twitterimage